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Saturday, December 31, 2011
Monday, December 26, 2011
Camp Chef HWDS Triton Hot Water Heater
!: Cheap Camp Chef HWDS Triton Hot Water Heater sale off
Brand : Camp ChefRate :
Price : $128.54
Post Date : Dec 27, 2011 04:34:06
Usually ships in 24 hours
Camp Chef Triton Hot Water Heater--On demand hot water heater and shower.
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Wednesday, December 14, 2011
SHURflo 2088-422-444 2.8 Classic Series Potable Water Pump
!: The Best Places to Buy SHURflo 2088-422-444 2.8 Classic Series Potable Water Pump save you money!
Brand : SHURfloRate :
Price : $69.48
Post Date : Dec 14, 2011 09:57:21
Usually ships in 24 hours
Shurflo potable water pumps are designed and constructed to deliver high performance, reliability and serviceability. These potable water self-priming pumps employ three independent pumping chambers to lift water up to 12 feet. They provide smooth flow and operate quietly. All Shurflo pumps have a built-in check valve that is rated to 200 PSI which prevents backflow into the tank, and contain an adjustable switch. This water pump can even run dry without damage! Comes wtih a 2 year limited warranty, and can be mounted in any position. UL, CSA and IAPMO apply to some models.
Monday, November 28, 2011
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Friday, April 15, 2011
Wayne PC2 115-Volt 340 GPH Portable Transfer Water Pump, Bronze
!: Cheap Wayne PC2 115-Volt 340 GPH Portable Transfer Water Pump, Bronze buy online
Brand : Wayne | Rate : | Price : $74.36
Post Date : Apr 15, 2011 23:33:06 | Usually ships in 6-10 business days
| Price : $74.36Post Date : Apr 15, 2011 23:33:06 | Usually ships in 6-10 business days
The Wayne 115V transfer pump is a portable, lightweight pump that is ideal for household use. Flow (GPH): 310, Volts: 115, Self-Priming: Yes, Volute: chrome-plated bronze volute
More Specification..!!
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Tuesday, April 5, 2011
Drains and the Discharge System
Your myriad sinks are drained into the drainage or discharge system, which receives the liquid discharge created through the food and beverage preparation region. The first component of the discharge program is on the sink itself: the trap. It is really a curved section of pipe, where the lowest part of the pipe "traps" (or retains) some drinking water.
The trap is known as a P trap when the drain pipes go into the wall; it is known as an S trap when the drain pipes go into the ground. In addition to these traps, it's a great idea to have floor drains located directly beneath your larger sinks. The drains inside a commercial kitchen area should have a dome strainer (or sediment bucket), much like a perforated sink stopper that traps bits of dirt and food as liquids go down the drain.
For the heaviest-duty jobs, a ground drain having a a lot larger strainer compartment (called a sump) is suggested. The sump is at least eight inches square. Kind 304 stainless steel is the preferred material for drain fabrication, and coved corners make them easier to clean. Drains ought to not be flush using the ground, but recessed slightly (about 1/16 of an inch) to prompt water to flow toward them.
The drain pipe should be three to 4 inches in diameter, and its interior walls must be coated with acrylic or porcelain enamel that's both nonporous and acid resistant. A nonslip ground mat, with slats for drainage, ought to be a standard accessory beneath every sink.How many floor drains should you've in your kitchen? Let's count the locations in which drains are a must to catch spills, overflow, and dirty drinking water from ground cleaning:
1. Hot line region
2. Prep and pantry region
3. By the pot sinks
4. Dishwashing area
5. Dry Storage region
6. Outside the walk-in refrigerator
7. Wait stations/service locations
8. Near steam equipment
9. Through the bar sinks
10. Under the ice maker
The ice maker has an additional unique drainage requirement: a recessed floor. One smart concept is to install several drains, inside a trench that's from a single to two feet wide and a number of feet long, covered having a rustproof metal grate. This is really efficient along the length of the hot line area or in the constantly wet dishroom.
When we talk about draining away waste materials, we're not just discussing water. The water often contains grease, and grease disposal is an enormous (and messy) problem in foodservice. A grease interceptor is needed by law in most towns and cities. It's commonly recognized as a grease trap, even though the professional plumbing industry discourages the use of this terminology.
Your area's building code will list which kitchen fixtures must be plumbed to the interceptor; usually, the water/waste output of the garbage disposal, dishwasher, and all sinks and ground drains must pass via the interceptor prior to it enters the sewer. Employee restrooms and on-premise laundry appliances generally do not have to become connected to the interceptor.
The role from the grease interceptor would be to prevent grease from leaving the restaurant's drainage program and clogging the city sewer system. Foodservice wastewater is really a large problem for sewers designed primarily for residential waste. Thus, fines and surcharges might be imposed on restaurants if their effluent (outflow) exceeds the local standards for its percentage of fats, oil and grease (FOG, in industry jargon).
As waste materials enters the interceptor, it separates into three layers: The heaviest particles of food and dirt sink towards the bottom; the middle layer is mostly water, with a little bit of suspended solids and grease in it; and the best layer is grease and oil. The interceptor "traps" the top and bottom layers whilst allowing the middle layer to flow away into the sewage system. Interceptors come in different sizes, and you ought to select a single based about the gallons of water that may run via it per minute, the number of appliances connected to it, and its capacity to retain grease.
Cleaning the interceptor regularly is necessary simply because the bottom layer can clog pipes if allowed to build up, and also the top layer can mix with, and pollute, the middle layer too much. Most restaurants hire a trap-cleaning service organization to handle this unpleasant task. It is really a costly activity, and not without legal ramifications. The support organization should be licensed to haul the grease waste to specially approved treatment areas.
It's not enough anymore for a restaurateur to trust that the grease is being taken care of. The smart ones take a proactive approach. Once in a whilst you'll see news reports about such support businesses that skirt the law by dumping waste materials into creeks or unapproved locations. You would be wise to thoroughly research your area's grease removal requirements and to interview a number of service businesses. Ask for, and contact, their references.
There are two kinds of interceptor cleaning: skimming (removing the best layer) and a full pump-out of the tank. For most foodservice operations, skimming isn't sufficient. The heavy, lower layer of particles must also be filtered away. You may decide on a combination of services-frequent skimming, with a full pump-out at normal intervals.
The types of foods you serve and your volume of business should be your guidelines, along with a scientific measurement of the effluent to see how much FOG and/or chemicals it contains. In some cities, the penalties are so strict that restaurateurs include a pretreatment step, adding fat-dissolving chemicals or filtering the waste materials prior to it even gets towards the grease trap. Undercounter units operate using electricity to recover grease for discarding as trash, not sewage.
Outside installation from the grease interceptor is suggested, at a level that is a number of feet below the kitchen area to use gravity in your favor in grease elimination. Constructing inspectors seldom permit an interceptor to become located anywhere inside the constructing, but if it happens to be within, it ought to be flush using the kitchen floor. Early in the building process, a call to your local plumbing inspector will supply the particulars for your city, and probably save you a lot of trouble.
We should also discuss the "dry" component of the discharge program, which is recognized as the venting system. Its main purpose is to avoid siphoning of water from the traps. Vents (known as "black vents") on both sides of the grease trap equalize the air pressure throughout the drainage program, circulating sufficient air to decrease pipe corrosion and help remove odors. Vent pipes extend up and via the roof, for kitchens and restrooms.
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Sunday, March 27, 2011
Tuesday, March 22, 2011
Laing E1 ecocirc Recirculating Pump
!1: Now is the time Laing E1 ecocirc Recirculating Pump Order Today!
Nice Design by :Laing ThermotechOver All Rating Reviews : 
Great Deal : Date Created :Mar 22, 2011 12:00:12
Great Deal : Date Created :Mar 22, 2011 12:00:12
A built-in temperature sensor automatically turns the autocirc pump on when the water temperature in the hot water supply line cools down to 85º F. This cool water in the hot water supply line is then pumped into the cold water line and back into the water heater.
The autocirc pump turns off automatically when the hot water supply line to the faucet reaches a temperature of 95º F, ensuring the instant availability of shower warm water with maximum temperature hot water only seconds behind. When the pump is automatically turned off by the built-in thermostat, an auto closure device prevents hot or cold water from mixing in either supply line.
Another beneficial feature is that hot water will also be instantly available at all other faucets in the supply line between the water heater and the faucet where the autocirc pump is installed.
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Sunday, March 20, 2011
Have a Tankless Water Heater? You Need a Hot Water Demand System
Tankless water heaters have several advantages over conventional Storage type water heaters that store a large volume of water in a tank.
One advantage is that since the tankless unit does not have a tank, there is no continuous heat (energy) loss from the large volume of stored heated water, as there is with a traditional Storage type heater. Typically tankless heaters do not have standing pilot lights like tank type units, saving even more energy. There is no question tankless water heaters are more energy efficient.
Another advantage is that you have virtually unlimited hot water, you will never run out. This could be a double edged sword though, as there is a tendency for humans to use what is available. Some users might end up taking much longer showers for instance, leading to an increase in water and energy usage.
This effect was common back when the government provided large tax credits for installing solar water heaters. Homeowners believing they now had cheap hot water tended to use a lot more water than before the solar heaters were installed. They used so much more that the monthly water heating bill actually increased in a many of the homes where the units were installed the backup heating elements were being used so much of the time.
A minor advantage that tankless units have over Storage units is the size of the footprint. The tankless units take up less space, although I don't think that is very important to most people.
Obviously there are some disadvantages to tankless water heaters. For one thing, they are much more expensive, and far more complex than a standard water heater. If they require repair it's likely to be more expensive, and the parts are harder to obtain in some Cases. Gas units require a large and more expensive flue, and electric units require very heavy wires because they use so much electricity.
Tankless heaters are typically turned on by a flow switch which turns the heater on when a minimum flow is reached, typically ½ to ¾ gallons per minute. This can be problematic if you need a very small flow of heated water, and can lead to wasting water. Most circulating pumps don't pump enough water to reliably activate tankless water heaters.
Using a traditional circulating pump will void the warranty on most tankless heaters, since they will cause the heater to turn on and off very frequently and far more than in typical household usage.
One of the biggest problems with the tankless heaters is the fact that they take much longer to get water to the fixture than traditional tank type units. You can picture a tankless water heater as a long pipe coiled up over a flame. For the water to get fully hot, it must travel all the way through the pipe. If the water starts out in the middle of the heater for instance, it will leave the heater after only being in the pipe for half the time it would need to reach full temperature. This means that it will take much longer for your water to get hot while you run the faucet waiting for it. It's pretty clear that this will cause an increase in water being run down the drain, costing the home owner money, wasting one of our most precious resources.
There is however a way to eliminate any of the water from being wastefully run down the drain while waiting for hot water. Use a demand system. A demand system only turns on when hot water is "demanded". When you are ready for your shower you push a button and the pump sends the heated water from your water heater to your fixture more quickly than if you run the shower at full blast, and the pump shuts off when the hot water reaches it. Thus you save time, water, energy, and money.
Many local water districts offer rebates for demand systems, so check with your local water company, some of the rebates cover the entire cost of a demand system, so in effect, you get a free system!
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